A solitary visitor braves the elements to walk her dog along a blustery Devon seafront. “I love Teignmouth,” she proclaims, protecting her face from the wind and rain. “It’s more refined and interesting than places like Torquay. It feels like there’s more culture here. The people are posher too, much nicer.”
Her contentious praise may not curry favour with the tourist board or those on the English Riviera, but she remains unbothered. “I’m just being honest,” she adds.
Devon boasts an array of stunning coastal towns, and while Teignmouth may never rival the popularity of neighbouring Torquay as a holiday hotspot, it holds a special place in many hearts due to its unique allure. After all, it didn’t earn the moniker “Gem of South Devon” for nothing.
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Welcome to the Devon seaside in winter. At first glance, the scene appears rather bleak, reports Devon Live.
The graceful Georgian buildings lining the seafront whisper of bygone grandeur. The imposing former Bay Hotel, once the property of a vibrant local figure likened to Basil Fawlty, is undergoing conversion into flats.
The Pier stands almost deserted, with most areas closed off to the public. The amusement arcade, home to a shooting gallery, air hockey, and coin fountains, exudes a nostalgic charm yet attracts few visitors.
Professor Coggins, the animatronic target in the rifle range, seems ready for his final curtain call. It’s easy to be swept up in the melancholy of a seaside town during winter – the ill-fated poet John Keats resided here for a time and composed several mournful odes about the locale.
A local shopper spoke about the hidden gems of Teignmouth, stating: “You have to look up,” and explained further, “Teignmouth is so interesting. Most people don’t look up at the buildings. There is so much interesting architecture here.”
They revealed how the town undergoes a transformation with the start of the tourist season, bolstered by events like the annual folk festival and air show that inject much-needed income into the economy. Last year’s carnival cancellation was a significant loss, raising concerns among many about its potential non-return.
Wayne Pearce, who runs Ye Olde Jolly Sailor, Teignmouth’s oldest pub, reflected on the town’s seasonal nature. He said: “Teignmouth is a very seasonal town. In winter it isn’t the busiest but during the summer as you can imagine it is a very busy period for us.
“The locals keep us ticking over in the winter. I’d the say the vibe in the town is that it’s a really lovely place with a lot to offer. The only problem is I feel there are a lot of coffee shops and charity shops and nothing really for the younger generation.”
Pearce also highlighted the town’s charm and live music scene: “It’s a great location. We have a really nice beach. It’s very much a fishing town and a lot of pubs are really into live music,” he added.
He noted the scarcity of accommodations such as hotels and traditional B&Bs, with the Cliffden on Dawlish Road being the one of the biggest in town. Wayne suggested that the presence of a brand like Travelodge could enhance Teignmouth by providing a consistent standard of hospitality.
As the holiday season approaches, excitement builds in the coastal town. “When the summer comes there is a big buzz around the town,” one local shared. “We see a lot of new faces and faces that return every year.”
This sentiment extends to the notion of unity amongst neighbouring towns. He believes that South Devon’s seaside communities, each with their unique offerings, complement each other well.
“I think Dawlish Warren has the big holiday parks and that’s great. Teignmouth hasn’t got that but we get a lot of visitors from there. Torquay is just much bigger and they have a great marina area and clubs and maybe something more for younger people.”
In contrast, contemporary Teignmouth holds its own charm with traditional seaside allure blended with lively music, fresh fish, and a healthy serving of pubs – an impressive feat at a time when pubs across the country are facing closures.
The community pride’s itself on being a haven for live music, offering regular band performances at venues like the Blue Anchor, The New Quay Inn, Malloys, or the Ship which are nestled amidst the narrow lanes by the fish quay.
These time-honoured taverns reflecting Teignmouth’s image as an honest working town, no twithstanding its more affluent residents.
Malcolm Adams, 76, a veteran musician who once played alongside renowned names such as Georgie Fame, Alan Price, and The Searchers, praises his hometown: “It’s a lovely little town, he says. The pubs are lovely. There are lots of local bands playing.”
However, he does express disappointment over closures affecting the younger generation, noting, “It’s a shame they closed the youth club because I think there should be more for younger people to do.”
Local shop employee Pete Kernot agrees with the sentiment, stating: “It’s very quiet in the winter as you would expect. The whole place changes in the summer. Teignmouth has a lot to offer but I can see how younger people might get a bit bored and want to leave.”
Teignmouth is known for being the birthplace of rock legends Muse, and locals take pride in this claim to fame. Many still recall the massive homecoming concerts held on The Den in 2009, which drew crowds of 30,000.
Today, that same open space houses the Pavilions, a popular arts centre featuring theatre productions, films, comedy shows, and other live performances.
Time Flies, a clock repair and antique shop located in Somerset Place, offers a unique experience. Owner Tim Taylor describes the moment when all the clocks chime, said: “I have to stagger it so they don’t all go off at once,” he says.
“Otherwise it’s just a noise. I set them them a few minutes apart and it sounds very effective.”
Taylor purchased Time Flies nine years ago from his friend Ian Gregory in an unusual manner. He recalls: “I got drunk one night and said I’d buy it off him,” he said.
“We were watching football together and he said he was going to retire so I said I’d buy the business. We had a laugh and eventually that’s what happened.”
Despite the struggles faced by high street businesses, Taylor remains optimistic, noting: “The high street is struggling but our order book is always full. At one stage we had two years of work booked in advance.”
Sapphire Jackson mans the till at Jackmans Toy Box, a beloved independent staple in the local shopping scene. “Business starts to pick up at Easter but really the season starts at the end of May the beginning of June,” she explains.
“We’ve get a lot of Welsh that visit. I don’t know why it is so popular with them to be honest but it is. Usually they come from Dawlish Warren and the big caravan parks there. I think they come because we have a pretty nice beach and more variety that Dawlish.”
The town’s sense of camaraderie was recently showcased when LJ’s Beach Shack was hit by a catastrophic fire, sparking a substantial fundraising effort by locals. Owners Louis and Amy expressed their thoughts: “It’s easy to dwell on the challenges Teignmouth has faced over the last few years or so and how it’s lost some of its sparkle as a beloved tourist destination.
But when tragedy struck at LJ’s Beach Shack, the community proved that its heart is still very much alive.
“People didn’t hesitate at all. They showed up, donating time, resources, and compassion to help rebuild not just a business, but a dream.
“Teignmouth is a town where neighbours lift each other up in times of need, proving that even in the face of loss, together we can create something stronger and brighter. We think the future for Teignmouth could be really bright with the assistance of the council bringing back a touch of magic.”
While Teignmouth may be a hive of activity in the summer, there’s plenty to appreciate during the extended winter months too – you just need to raise your gaze and tune into the music.