A trip to Thailand 15 years ago with a friend remains a cherished memory, filled with cycling around rice paddies outside Bangkok, cooking lessons, night markets, temples, golden buddhas, breathtaking sunsets, and snorkelling in the crystal-clear waters of Koh Phangan. The food was unforgettable!
Could a return journey to the Land of Smiles, facilitated by the recently reintroduced British Airways direct route from Gatwick to Bangkok, match up to those fond memories?
Koh Samui
My first stop on this revisit was Koh Samui, the larger sibling of Koh Phangan. It’s a favourite among travellers, and with the third season of The White Lotus partially filmed on the island at the Four Seasons Hotel, its popularity is set to soar.
It’s easy to see why, with lush forested slopes descending to white sandy beaches and turquoise seas, where hotels are tucked away in private bays, reports the Express.
The Banyan Tree Samui resort’s whitewashed villas cascade down tropical jungle slopes to an infinity pool, offering stunning views over a private bay in Lamai.
Each villa, including mine, features gates that open onto decking with loungers and seating. An oversized wooden door leads into a grand living area with a sofa and bar, followed by the bedroom and bathroom, complete with a large bath perfect for a long soak while enjoying the view through floor-to-ceiling windows.
And the highlight… my own private pool, accessible through sliding doors in the bedroom.
That evening, I arranged for a buggy to join my travel mates for an excursion to the nearby Lamai village night market.
Lamai is Koh Samui’s most frequented beach area. The beach extends seemingly endlessly along the coastline, with rocky outcrops interrupting the view.
Beachside eateries like Cactus serve traditional Thai dishes such as prawn Pad Thai and fried giant fish.
Its night market is a big hit with both locals and tourists. With a Chang beer in hand, we browsed the food stalls and picked up gyoza dumplings, tempura prawns, potato spirals and gui chai spinach dumplings, which our guide, Nikkie, suggested.
We then sat at a picnic table and enjoyed our meal.
The Banyan Tree provides a range of water sports from the beach, and the yoga classes were excellent for relaxing my muscles after a lengthy flight.
The spa boasts an incredible rainforest room where you can experience various hot and cold water therapies before relaxing on a heated lounger if the weather outside becomes a bit tropical.
However, with the sun shining, we embarked on a 90-minute speedboat journey to the neighbouring island of Koh Tao for some snorkelling.
Colourful parrot fish nibbled on coral, giant wrasse cautiously peeked their heads out from under coral banks, while bright yellow and black striped angelfish swam around unfazed by us floundering humans above them.
The following day, we embarked on a long bike ride around a less travelled region of Koh Samui.
Our journey began at the Wat Phra Chedi Laem So, a quaint yet stunning golden temple on the south coast, before we ventured through the island’s oldest and last natural coconut grove along the coastline.
We took a pause at Thong Khurt pier, where our guide, Khun Bandit, enlightened us about the traditional long boats that have been used by the Thais for centuries to travel between islands and fish.
These vibrantly coloured crafts are still an option for travel from the mainland, which is just barely visible in the distance, to Koh Samui.
Such activities demand nourishment, and back at the hotel, we indulged in the chef’s table dining experience. Our private dining table was set up in the Edge restaurant, offering views over the bay.
We were invited to assist in preparing the ingredients, so I put my chopping skills to use and cut up some vegetables and herbs for our starter of grilled beef tenderloin salad with toasted rice powder.
A fragrant tom yum soup and salmon wrapped in red noodles with a yellow coconut curry was prepared for us right at the table, all paired with wines from Monsoon Valley winery, located south of Bangkok.
It was a delightful and indulgent experience. All too soon, our stay in Koh Samui was drawing to a close, but not before one final plunge in my villa pool.
Then it was off to Bangkok.
Bangkok
Fifteen years ago, I lodged on the ever-popular Khaosan Road, known back then for its popularity among backpackers and for our accommodation, Buddy Lodge (which I’m told is still there and still well-loved).
The bustling streets of Bangkok’s Chinatown, alive with food vendors and bars playing music round the clock, did not disappoint my expectations for a vibrant atmosphere.
Yaowarat Road is flanked by food and drink stalls, with shops, restaurants and brightly lit signs creating a lively backdrop.
Our guide, Tim, was instrumental in helping us navigate the best stalls. We kicked off our culinary adventure with a bowl of crab with dragon noodles, a simple yet delicious dish.
Other mouth-watering delights included rice cakes with fried radish and cream-filled sweet bao buns. While I’ll always remember the Chinatown experience as vividly as Khaosan Road, I might choose to forget the deep-fried silkworms.
Nearby is Wallflowers, a charming cafe by day and bar by night. Once a florist’s shop, the floral theme continues in its decor, with flowers cascading from old umbrellas on the ceiling and adorning the rustic tables and cocktails.
My toasted Negroni, infused with coffee beans and garnished with herbs, had an unusual taste that grew on me.
All this was just a stone’s throw away from our accommodation at the Shangri-La hotel, which overlooks the Chao Phraya river.
Although the decor could use some updating, my room was still very luxurious and comfortable. The main pool was perfect for a late afternoon swim followed by an Aperol Spritz as the sun set.
Beyond the well-known tourist attractions like the Grand Palace and Wat Arun, there are some hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.
The Kudi Chin community across the Chao Phraya River, home to descendants of Portuguese settlers, offers a glimpse into centuries past.
We meandered through the narrow lanes of this tucked-away hamlet where cars dare not tread.
In this quaint enclave, Auntie Amphan’s kitchen is a treasure trove of delightful homemade sweets, and just around the bend sits the Baan Kudichin Museum a charming residence bursting with artefacts that tell tales of this serene nook amid Bangkok’s hustle.
For further serenity, Poomjai Gardens beckons with its lush array of over 100 lychee trees, interspersed with an abundance of splendid flora and hosting the Natura cafe for some exquisite fare in a tranquil setting.
As the day waned, it was time for a final sunset cocktail; my Hangovertini at the Sky Bar of the Lebua hotel was nothing short of spectacular.
One can’t help but utter a “wow” upon stepping out onto the rooftop bar, seemingly suspended over the Bangkok skyline.
Thailand, you’ve only grown finer since my last visit 15 years ago.
We will surely reunite, perhaps in less than another 15 years.
Book the holiday
When booking your getaway, consider British Airways Holidays’ tempting package: A two-night stay with breakfast at the Shangri-La Bangkok, followed by five luxurious nights at the Banyan Tree Samui resort, starting from £2,689 per person. This includes return flights from Gatwick, a generous 23kg baggage allowance, and internal flights between Bangkok and Koh Samui.
Explore Thailand holiday options for 2025 and secure your trip with deposits from just £60 per person.
For more information, visit fanclubthailand.co.uk.
Travel test – British Airways Club World Business flight from Gatwick to Bangkok, Thailand.
Once settled in my aisle seat, I was offered a glass of Our Cellar Selection, Brut NV, Champagne. Shortly after take-off, a three-course dinner was served, starting with prosciutto ham and marinated figs, followed by beef short rib with colcannon potatoes, paired with a glass of Yealands Pinot Noir.
Dessert was a delicious chocolate marble cake.
Wi-fi was available on the flight, but I chose to disconnect from social media and enjoy the movie Wicked Little Letters before getting some sleep.
Converting my seat into a flat bed required minimal effort, and the footrest folded easily. A fluffy pillow and blanket ensured a comfortable rest.
The White Company amenity bag contained an eye mask, earplugs, and socks, which aided my sleep until breakfast was served.
The highlight of the flight was the creative Bridgerton-inspired safety video. Drawing inspiration from British period dramas, literature, and films, it provided passengers with standard flight instructions in an entertaining manner.
I suspect it captured the attention of many more passengers than usual.