As a cook this is the best time of year. Summer fruits and vegetables have given way to robust roots, dark leafy greens, pumpkins, great potatoes and autumn fruits. It’s an ideal part of the year to embrace hearty, comforting dishes and one that ticks all the boxes is a ragu served with pasta and meatballs.
The ragu recipe here is packed with root vegetables that melt into a rich winey, tomato sauce. The key is to slowly cook the roots with onion and garlic, over a low heat, in butter and oil until golden and soft. Take your time over this – put a lid on the pan, give it the odd stir and you’ll reap the rewards.
In the recipe here I’ve used diced celeriac, carrot and parsnip but you could substitute beetroot, squash, even turnip. It’s a great way to use up any excess vegetables at the bottom of the fridge and you can double up here and batch cook and freeze. Add some wine, stock and passata and gently simmer.
The meatball recipe here is one I got from an American friend’s granny back in the eighties. She was from Naples and to her wasting food was a major sin. You soak old bread in milk and then form it into a paste in your hands. This is then mixed into minced beef, or she did half pork mince, with onions, garlic and parmesan and formed into balls. Fry them off and add to the ragu.
Serve with whatever pasta you like and sprinkle more parmesan over at the end. And if that doesn’t warm the cockles of your heart, you might want to check your pulse…
The other day I was leaving a friend’s house and noticed her next door neighbour had a tree brimming with pears. They were untouched and I wonder if they would ever be picked.
Pears are one of my favourite fruits, especially when juicy and ripe. They make for a lovely salad with salty blue cheese, some dressed leaves and shaved nuts. If they’re not so ripe they’re ideal for poaching. When I’m poaching pears I peel them, cut them in half, remove the core then add to a poaching liquor. Poaching them whole seems to be a bit of a faff. Here the poaching liquor is a raspberry syrup made with frozen raspberries and sugar. Poach the pears gently and they take up the flavour and vibrant colour of the fruit.
In the recipe here I’ve paired them with a chocolate and almond pudding. Pears, raspberries and chocolate all go beautifully together. Serve them warm from the oven with a dollop of cream. A distraction to thinking about what’s happened to that local pear tree…
Chocolate and almond puddings with raspberry poached pears
Chocolate and almond puddings with raspberry poached pears
What you’ll need
For the chocolate and almond puddings
Method
Butter 4 shallow baking dishes and set oven to 180oc.
Sift the flour and cocoa powder into a bowl. Add the almonds and castor sugar. Whisk the melted butter with the milk, egg and vanilla. Whisk into the dry mixture and mix to a smooth batter. Spoon into the buttered moulds and bake for about 20 minutes or until an inserted skewer comes out clean.
For the raspberry poached pears
Place the raspberries, sugar and water in a pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Blend to a smooth sauce and pass through a sieve into another pan. Peel the pears and cut in half through the root.
Remove core with a melon baller or teaspoon and place in the raspberry liquor. Cover with a sheet of parchment and simmer gently until just cooked. Remove pears and boil the liquor to reduce by half. Return the pears to the pan and allow to cool.
Slice the pears and place on top of the puddings. Dust with a little icing sugar.
Meatballs with root vegetable ragu and pasta
Meatballs with root vegetable ragu and pasta
What you’ll need
For the root vegetable ragu
Method
Heat the butter and oil in a saucepan and add the onion, garlic, celeriac, carrot and parsnip. Place a lid on top and cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomato puree and cook for a minute. Add the juice from the soaked mushrooms and finely chop the mushrooms and add to the pan with the wine, passata and stock. Simmer for half an hour and check seasoning.
For the meatballs
Cook the onion and garlic in a tablespoon of the oil until soft and golden.
Soak the bread in the milk for 15 minutes then mix into a paste with your hands. Add the onion mixture and bread to the mince with the rosemary and parmesan. Roll into small walnut sized balls.
Heat a tablespoon and half of the remaining oil in a frying pan until hot and add half the meatballs. Cook to seal on all sides and add to the sauce. Repeat with remaining oil and meatballs and add to the sauce. Cover and cook gently for about 25 minutes.
Cook pasta to al dente in boiling salted water and drain – add some of the liquid to loosen the sauce of the meatballs. Mix in the pasta and serve in bowls with a sprinkling of parmesan on top.