If you’re a gastronome with a taste for locally sourced, imaginatively prepared meals, then this is for you. Starling, which flung open its doors in August, presents a rustic, dreamy ambiance and delectable dishes.
Chef Nick Beardshaw, previously of Kerridge’s in London, has unveiled his own eatery in Esher, Surrey, where he exhibits his top culinary masterpieces. The menu includes Nick’s renowned A Moon Shaped Pool, a dish that earned him praise on the BBC’s Great British Menu.
I had the joy of eating there on a Sunday afternoon, and I can assert without hesitation: this restaurant is exceptional. My partner, Owen, and I had a wonderful time delving into the impressive menu.
We were cordially greeted by general manager James Shaw, who walked us through the menu and swiftly served our beverages. I started with a revitalising peppermint tea, followed by a sumptuous Sussex sparkling wine, while Owen chose a bottle-aged Negroni.
To kick off, we ordered the steak tartare hash brown with black garlic for £9, and the truffle cheese crumpets for £7 to share. With its irresistible truffle aroma, crispy exterior and dense crumpet, we could have polished off an entire plate.
I was surprised by the hash browns – they were so thick, topped with whipped bone marrow and thinly sliced steak. This was another perfect quick bite before our starters.
The Pigs Head was not your typical roast hog with an apple in its mouth, but rather a pulled pork dish with a crispy outer layer. The pork was so smooth it was almost creamy, making it another addictive dish.
Naturally, we couldn’t leave without trying A Moon Shaped Pool, which I was most excited about. Without giving too much away, the pearly surface is melted away with a Thai sauce, revealing marinated cucumber and hand-dived Orkney scallops underneath.
The scallops, adorned with Exmoor caviar, were wonderfully spongey and fresh. Despite its intricate and futuristic presentation, this dish also evokes a sense of familiar home comforts.
After enjoying our starters, our main courses arrived. Owen opted for the Himalayan salad aged beef rump served with Yorkshire puddings and horseradish cream, perfectly seasoned with thick, sizzling fat on each slice.
My dish, Creedy Carver duck with neatly dolloped cherry ketchup, arrived as well. We indulged in large roast potatoes, garlic roasted hispi cabbage and cauliflower cheese made with Westcombe cheddar.
The duck melted in the mouth at first bite and was beautifully presented with duck croustillant. The garlic roasted cabbage is an absolute must-try, with a crisp outer layer drizzled in garlic sauce.
For dessert, I had to go for the iconic Balloon Girl dish, a clever interpretation of Banksy’s work. The sweet cheesecake was light and fluffy, complemented by a slightly sour, glossy exterior and a chocolate torte girl silhouette.
There was also a delightful surprise in the form of popping candy hidden within the dessert, adding an exciting twist. We also tried the strawberries and cream choux bun, surrounded by a strawberry and champagne jelly.
The jelly was incredibly natural and packed with flavour, complementing the light and crispy bun filled with cream and berries perfectly. To finish off our meal, we celebrated with a ‘Freezer’ Gin Martini, made with Hampton Court Gin and an olive resting at the bottom of the glass.
This is a refined drink to be savoured slowly, and it was a wonderful way to end our dinner. The Starling experience was truly exceptional, and I would argue that there’s nowhere else in Surrey quite like it.
This unique bistro should not be missed, as it is a fantastic addition to the county’s top dining destinations. To visit Starling, you can make a reservation via their website.