Driving along in the middle of nowhere, admiring the stunning scenery, up pop two crazy horses determined to cross the road whether there’s a car in front or not.
As we braked and swerved around, up on the outside, the rest of the traffic ignored the chaos and oncoming cars and screeched past, leaving only exhaust smoke behind.
Welcome to Albania, a fabulous country full of some of the most daredevil drivers in the world who sum up the speed with which the once communist country is growing.
Low cost airlines have been adding the capital Tirana to their schedules and with a new airport set to open in Vlorë in the south in March 2025, Albania is opening up to tourists.
The clock tower in Tirana. Photo: Pixabay
And everyone is in for a treat as it’s full of fascination. As you fly into Tirana, mountains and hills surround the al fresco airport which has outdoor seating while you wait to board.
The city was named the European Youth Capital two years ago and is buzzing with new development and opportunities.
And it’s looking good, with the locals keen to embrace the changes and welcome the world to their little corner. Its expansion has been backed by major companies including The Hilton, which opened its first hotel in 2018.
The Hilton Garden Inn is a five minute bus ride from the busy centre and the perfect setting for exploring Tirana. With 143 rooms over eight floors and great views across the city, this modern hotel has excellent facilities, friendly staff and sumptuous breakfasts.
Dining at The Hilton. Photo: Hilton Hotels
Ample sized rooms have fabulously comfy beds, modern soothing furnishings, the latest technology and a mini bar complete with complimentary water.
A top floor gym and laundry is open to guests and the airy restaurant offers local delicacies, cooked food and delicious juices to keep you going all day.
It’s great to try Albanian food served in style and chefs are on hand to rustle up any extras you may be tempted to ask for.
A wonderful way of getting your bearings and a first glimpse of how beautiful Tirana is comes courtesy of the Albania open hop on and hop off bus tour.
With audio commentary, the bus travels along past the main landmarks including Skanderbeg Square, the city’s main plaza named after Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, a national hero for leading a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire.
Dominated by a huge monument, it’s the city’s main meeting point and at 40,000 square feet, it’s one of the largest in the world.
Sunny Saranda. Photo: Pixabay
Nearby is the strangely fascinating Pyramid, which was originally built as a museum but is now a great viewing place.
The Et’hem Bey Mosque has trees, waterfalls and bridges and was closed under communist rule. It reopened in 1991, when 10,000 people gathered inside and the police did not intervene.
Art is important in Tirana and two former Cold War bunkers have been transformed into Bunk’Art. One is on the outskirts of the city and gives a comprehensive history, with the second dedicated to important paintings.
A nod to the past comes at The Museum of Secret Surveillance, also known as The House of Leaves. The former maternity hospital is dedicated to telling the story of the communist era and the ways the authorities kept their eyes and ears on locals.
Away from city life and a four hour drive amongst some of Albania’s most impressive scenery takes you to the country’s riveria.
Historic Gjirokastër. Photo: Pixabay
Saranda is sandwiched between the blue Ionian sea and hills of olive groves. With a horseshoe shaped bay, edged by beaches and a promenade, it’s a divine place to visit and from here you catch a high speed ferry to the Greek island of Corfu. The remains of the centre, where wealthy Jewish families lived, are preserved too.
Perched at the top is the 16th century Lëkurësi Castle, which looks down on a town which is being speedily developed.
In fact, the whole coastline is stunning. As you drive from Tirana, you take in Albania’s second city of Durrës and nearby Vlorë , both beautiful in their own right, and close to Saranda is the village of Ksamil, nicknamed the European Maldives.
Part of the Butrint National Park, it is known for its olive oil, lemons and tangerines and has been transformed from a sleepy village into a haven for sun-seekers who flock to the white beaches and turquoise waters for some relaxing and recharging.
Nearby is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Butrint, full of Mediterranean history, with occupation stretching back to 50,000BC.
Shaded from the summer heat by trees, you can wander and admire the artefacts inspired by the Romans and the Greeks and there is a museum crammed full of statues and works of art.
Beautiful Butrint. Credit: Pixabay
High in the mountains is the sweet town of Gjirokastër, again protected by UNESCO and overlooked by a fortress. It’s simply lovely to stroll around, with cobbled streets and small family run cafes. Here qifqi, rice balls mixed with eggs, mint, salt and black pepper and fried in olive oil, are only sold locally.
Summers are hot and a great way to cool off is a visit to the Blue Eye, a natural spring just outside Saranda, which comes from a cave. The dark centre of it is similar to the pupil of a human eye.
Fifty metres deep, it’s blue but crystal clear so you can clearly see the “eye” when peering down from the viewing deck into the wonder.
It’s a 30 minute walk from the car park to the water and there’s mopeds for hire and a sightseeing train to transport visitors. On the way, the beautiful lake and river nearby can be used for canoeing.
Swimming in the Blue Eye is banned because it’s so cold and potentially dangerous as the pressure of the spring forces you back up as soon as you jump in, but people find the allure of the eye too tempting and leap in anyway!
Like the drivers, the swimmers are determined to live life to the full.
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