Co Londonderry designer Jonathan Anderson has stepped down as creative director of Spanish fashion house Loewe after 11 years amid speculation he’s set to take on the same role at Dior.
Anderson (40), who also operates eponymous label JW Anderson, was critically acclaimed while at the helm of the brand which catapulted him to worldwide fame and awards success.
Born in Magherafelt to former Ireland rugby star Willie Anderson, he got his start in fashion while working in Brown Thomas in Dublin.
He later moved to London, where he graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2005 before working for fashion label Prada.
in 2013, Anderson was appointed creative director of Loewe, a leather goods brand founded in 1846 and bought by label powerhouse company LVMH in 1996.
His role there won him two consecutive Designer of the Year accolades at The Fashion Awards in 2023 and 2024 and International Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards in 2023.
In a statement, Anderson said: “While reflecting on the last 11 years, I have been lucky enough to be surrounded by people with the imagination, the skills, the tenacity and the resourcefulness to find a way to say ‘yes’ to all my wildly ambitious ideas.
“While my chapter draws to a close, Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come, and I will look on with pride, watching it continue to grow, the amazing Spanish brand I once called home.”
Pascale Lepoivre, CEO of Loewe, added: “I am incredibly grateful to Jonathan Anderson for the 11 years of unmatched creativity, passion and dedication that he has given to Loewe.
“With him as its creative director, the house has risen to new heights with international recognition.
“The Puzzle bag, celebrating its 10th anniversary, has become a true icon. And the brand codes that he has created, rooted in craft, will live on as his legacy.”
Loewe flourished under Anderson, despite a pandemic and turn away from luxury fashion.
The brand’s parent company owner, LVMH, achieved a 30% revenue increase to €810.8m (£681.2m) and 62% rise in net profit to €207.3m (£174.2m) in the 12 months ended December 31, 2023.
Most notably, Anderson was behind the brand’s aforementioned Puzzle bag, which has become one of its most recognisable pieces.
The designer’s own brand, JW Anderson, is also famous for its own eclectic handbags, including pieces in the shapes of a pigeon and a frog.
Last year, he spoke about his upbringing in Magherafelt, which included attending Rainey Endowed School.
“I remember when they blew up Magherafelt high street, and driving past it every day when travelling to school. I remember a sports shop being blown off the face of the earth,” he said.
The announcement of Anderson’s departure comes one week after he debuted his final collection for Loewe in Paris— and amid heavy speculation that he is set to become creative director at luxury French brand Dior.
Earlier this year, Dior’s menswear creative director, Kim Jones, announced he would depart, leading to speculation Anderson will take on the role.
Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who left their own namesake brand at the start of the year, are reportedly set to take Anderson’s spot at Loewe.
Last year, Anderson went back to his roots with a collaboration with Irish drinks brand Guinness.
Speaking about his partnership with the famous Irish stout, he said: “I’ve always been obsessed with Guinness and their brand. I think they are still today one of the greatest advertisers and I liked this idea of using their amazing graphics.
“There is something about the way in which marketing was used, especially at the turn of the century, and how Guinness really pioneered — and still do — how we look and approach the art of branding.”
Outside of his work for Loewe and JW Anderson, the Co Derry designer has also extended his talents to film costumery, handling the fashion for Italian director Luca Guadagnino’s 2024 releases — Challengers, which starred Zendaya and Josh O’Connor, and Queer, which starred Daniel Craig.
During his dedication for when the Magherafelt man was named one of TIME magazine’s 100 People, Guadagnino praised Anderson for designing the costumes, stating: “He is grounded and has an innate understanding of how fashion and human behaviour intertwine”.
“Jonathan is one of the most intelligent, empathetic and curious people I know,” the Oscar-nominated filmmaker continued, “but he also has a wonderful sense of humour, and a capacity not to take himself too seriously.
“Costume design in particular takes a great deal of humanity and wisdom, and working with him in the past has helped me better understand the characters whose stories we were telling.
“His work is always ahead of the curve. What he does at JW Anderson and Loewe is fashion that belongs to us all, now and in the future.”