When chef Mark Hix first considered a career in the culinary world he had a simple choice to make. Take domestic science at school in the west country seaside town of Weymouth, where he grew up, or go with the tried and trusted, male dominated metalwork.
“I chose domestic science,” he said. “I thought it might be a good way to meet some girls.”
“It turned out quite the opposite — all the girls chose metalwork and there were three of us, all boys, in the class.”
It was, looking back on a career which saw him work in the kitchens of some of the most celebrated London restaurants, a wise decision, if not for the reasons he initially intended.
Having become a top chef at establishments including The Ivy, The Hilton, The Dorchester and Le Caprice, Mark is now lauded as a pioneer of English cuisine, re-writing the rulebook.
He then branched out on his own with his unique HIX restaurants, has been involved in TV work with the Great British Menu and penned 12 cookbooks. He arrived in Belfast yesterday to impart some of his knowledge to a new generation of chefs at Ulster University as part of the Oxford Cultural Collective backed Culinary Salon series.
Celebrity chef Mark Hix at the University of Ulster Academy restaurant in Belfast with trainee chef’s Caoimhe Hamilton and Jodie Chan (Stephen Hamilton)
While running his own restaurants took a back seat when he called it quits during the Covid pandemic, Mark remains very much at home in the kitchen and as an award-winning food writer.
“I started at catering college in Dorset and moved straight to the London scene,” he said. “I just got stuck in. You have to put in the groundwork.
“Today colleges on the mainland aren’t as good as they used to be, but I always find when I come to Ireland they’re a few notches up from what’s on offer elsewhere. It’s places like this, at Ulster University, where it all starts. They get the right amount of people with the right attitude to succeed.
“I worked through the ranks and ended up having my own business. I would never do anything differently when I look back on where I’ve been, the places I’ve worked and the restaurants I’ve managed, the celebrities served. Now I’ve got no restaurants, so it’s about the next generation. But it’s all been good fun.
“I’ve been here a few times,” he said. “Peter Hannan (Hannan Meats, Moira) has always been a key supplier to my restaurants and a good friend. We fish a lot together and cook up some of his meats on a barbecue. I’ve enjoyed a lot of good times in Northern Ireland. And you’re making some the best cheese and butter to be found anywhere,” he added.
…it’s one of those businesses that’s never going to die off…People are always going to want new dining experiences, and we need young people like those here at Ulster University coming through.
Mark will be leading students as part of the Culinary Salon series, with 100 guests arriving at the university’s Academy restaurant on Tuesday night.
“Seasonal and simple is the plan for the menu,” he said. “For me it’s always been natural to cook in seasons,” he added. “Use the ingredients from that season rather than trying to use all ingredients all year round. It keeps the menu varied across the year.
“Hospitality’s a business that’s never going to go away,” he said, and he’s been impressed recent changes in Belfast.
“It’s always been a difficult business,” he said. “And sometimes a wealthy man’s business, but I’ve seen the developments around St Anne’s Square. Belfast is always a place where you’ll get great food.
“But even when you think you’ve got a good formula it doesn’t always work out. Staffing and rent costs can be high so it can be quite a struggle. Good food and good ingredients are key to success.
“But it’s one of those businesses that’s never going to die off,” he added. “People are always going to want new dining experiences, and we need young people like those here at Ulster University coming through.”
Celebrity chef Mark Hix at the University of Ulster Academy restaurant in Belfast (Stephen Hamilton)
Donald Sloan, chair and founder of the Oxford Cultural Collective, is delighted to have Mark involved in the scheme.
“In every generation there are only a small number of chefs considered to have changed attitudes to food and bring a new perspective to menus,” he said. “In the 1980s and 90s when Mark was at Le Caprice he did that. His contribution was absolutely game changing.”
Two students hoping his game-changing knowledge helps them are Jodie Chan and Caoimhe Hamilton, currently in their second year of culinary arts.
“It’s very exciting to have an opportunity like this,” said Caoimhe. “You know where he’s been, where he’s worked, the restaurants he’s run and the TV work so having him here looking over our shoulders is a little daunting, but we can learn so much,
“This is the third or fourth time we’ve been involved in a night like this and every time is different,” added Jodie. “Chefs all have their own styles and ways in the kitchen. Having Mark behind with us does put a bit of pressure on, but it’s good pressure. We’re here to learn from the best.”