It’s the UK’s smallest city, with a population smaller than many villages. But don’t let St Davids’ size fool you — it has plenty more to offer. Nestled within a national park, home to one of the nation’s most stunning cathedrals and offering an impressive range of accommodation and dining options, St Davids also boasts some of the most picturesque beaches you could ever hope to find right on its doorstep.
Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting multiple times and I’d return far more frequently if I could. Pembrokeshire is, without doubt, one of the world’s most beautiful locations. Time seems to stand still here, as the stresses of work and the hustle and bustle of larger city life dissipate into the fresh Irish Sea air.
Around a three-hour drive from Bristol, St Davids marks the end of Wales’ most westerly A-road. Venture any further west, and you’ll find yourself navigating narrow lanes leading to quaint villages and breathtaking beaches that encircle the city. In fact, you won’t find a town of any significant size within a half-hour drive, with Haverfordwest and Fishguard being the closest.
However, that doesn’t mean you’ll be at a loss for things to do. Spending your days in this corner of the world is among the most relaxing and rejuvenating experiences you could possibly do. For those seeking thrill and adventure, west Wales offers the opportunity to kayak and coasteer around its rugged cliffs. Alternatively, you can unwind in its cafes, restaurants, shops and hotels or bask on its numerous golden beaches during the summer months.
Things to do in St Davids
St Davids Cathedral
Constructed on the grounds of a sixth-century monastery established by St David, the patron saint of Wales, St Davids Cathedral has been a place of pilgrimage and worship for over 800 years. Viewing it from the city outskirts, one can only speculate what it would have felt like to behold it centuries ago as the weather rolled in from the Irish Sea.
The sight must have been awe-inspiring, just as it remains in the 21st century. However, there were also periods when it would have been terrifying. Approximately 1,000 years ago, the church, as it was then known, endured repeated Viking attacks, reports The Express, 11 in total between 907 and 1091.
The importance of the site is further emphasised by the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace located adjacent to it. Each time I visit, I am astounded that such a remote location was chosen for two such substantial and splendid structures.
The Blue Lagoon
Just a stone’s throw up the coast from St Davids, you’ll stumble upon the Blue Lagoon, a favourite haunt for kayaking and coasteering enthusiasts. It’s not uncommon to see thrill-seekers on guided tours taking the plunge from the cliffs into the deep blue waters below (though I’d advise against trying this unless you’re an expert or accompanied by one). This spot was once the heart of the St Brides Slate Company’s operations, with its slate quarry active until 1910. It’s the slate that lends the water its stunning aqua-blue hue.
Porthgain
St Davids may be small for a city, but Porthgain is absolutely tiny. Nestled around a minuscule harbour, it boasts just one narrow road in and out. Once a bustling commercial harbour used for shipping stone from the nearby quarry (the historic red brick buildings still stand sentinel over the water), Porthgain may be petite but it’s now a buzzing tourist hub. Despite its size, it’s home to a cracking pub, The Sloop, a top-notch seafood restaurant, The Shed, and a handful of art galleries. It also serves as a great starting point for a clifftop stroll along the coast.
Solva
Solva is another picturesque harbour village that packs a punch when it comes to attractions. The village is divided into two distinct areas: Upper Solva, perched on the hillside above the water, and Lower Solva, which clusters around the harbour at the end of a slender river valley. Despite its compact size, this little area alone boasts three pubs, two cafes, a pair of restaurants, artists’ galleries and shops.
Beaches
Unless you’ve been living in a cave for a long time, you’ll be aware that Pembrokeshire boasts a number of stunning beaches. Whitesands, the nearest large beach to St Davids, is situated in a wide open harbour on the extreme western edge of Wales. Caerfai, located south of the city, is considerably smaller and more secluded.
Pembrokeshire Coast Path and National Park
Wales is encircled by a walkable coastal path, with the Pembrokeshire stretch arguably being the most breathtaking. One day, I plan to traverse the entire path. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park encompasses both the coast and the equally picturesque interior of the county.
Ancient landmarks
In addition to the cathedral in St Davids itself, Pembrokeshire is peppered with significant landmarks dating back hundreds, even thousands, of years. Just outside St Davids, you’ll discover St Non’s Chapel and Well (Non was St David’s mother, and this is believed to be his birthplace in the sixth century).
The small, rectangular chapel may be unadorned and modest, but its location overlooking the rugged St Non’s Bay is truly awe-inspiring. On the path leading to the chapel, you’ll encounter a holy well reputed to have healing properties, another favourite stop for visiting pilgrims.
To the northeast of St Davids, you’ll come across the Pentre Ifan burial chamber. This chamber harks back to the New Stone Age when our forebears interred their deceased in tombs like this one. The enormous capstone is thought to have remained in position for 5,000 years.
Ramsey Island
Ramsey Island, with its soaring cliffs reaching heights of up to 120 metres, is a haven for breeding seabirds and is meticulously cared for by the RSPB. Visitors can catch a ferry to this secluded island twice daily to bask in the tranquillity and take in the breathtaking views of the Irish Sea.
Places to stay and eat in St Davids
When it comes to dining and accommodation, St Davids offers an impressive array of options that manage to be both top-notch and effortlessly casual. The Really Wild Emporium has Welsh culinary creations such as sweet chestnut lavercake with capers, beetroot-cured salmon, and locally-sourced cod.
Grain provides a unique twist on pizza and craft beer, infusing Italian classics with Welsh flavours. For those seeking something a bit more refined, Blas which translates to “taste” in Welsh presents exquisite dishes like Solva crab with chicken skin and succulent Welsh lamb, ensuring you never forget you’re in Wales.
For a touch of luxury during your stay in St Davids, Twr y Felin stands out as the premier hotel, boasting rooms decorated with original art inspired by the Pembrokeshire landscape. Additionally, there’s no shortage of charming B&Bs and Airbnbs in the vicinity.