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By Adam Waxman
An epicurean oasis, a skiing paradise, the Eastern Townships of Quebec are a melange of beautiful spas nestled in pristine nature; wineries and micro-breweries, boulangeries and fromageries; kayaking and boating on quiet lakes; and mountain trails for hiking, cycling and skiing that never end. Long admired as a romantic escape, it is also a mecca for unique family adventures that are sans pareil! A cluster of extraordinary experiences that dot the countryside elevate our exploration of the Cheesemakers Circuit with discoveries we hitherto could not imagine.
J. Armand Bombardier Ingenuity Museum
Quebec’s most famous inventor, J. Armand Bombardier, hails from Valcourt in the Eastern Townships. At the Bombardier Ingenuity Museum, we learn the history of Bombardier who, as a fifteen-year-old child, invented the world’s first Ski-Doo. From this DIY moment in his father’s garage on, doctors could visit patients in their homes in winter, patients could travel to hospital, children could safely commute to school, and an entire industry was born. When summers made the Ski-Doo irrelevant, Bombardier invented all-season vehicles that could traverse water, dessert sands, mud, swamps and even rocky mountain terrain. This innovation enabled tanks during wartime, and made Bombardier an invaluable international company. Not only did Bombardier invent vehicles, he also invented the machines to build the vehicle’s parts, like the vulcanizer.
This is an extraordinary museum where we can see the evolution of the Ski-Doo and its impact on the world, and browse all the historic models right from the beginning, in Bombardier’s garage. But the most important mantra shared, is for each of us to anticipate the needs of tomorrow.
The museum poses questions to young visitors of today like, “What will transportation look like in the future?” and “What energy source will propel your vehicle?” There are stations within the museum that encourage children to dream their own original vehicle. My son is transfixed on a digital screen in which he is combining parts for style and function to create a flying car.
We also see designs of Bombardier’s innovators to reduce air and noise pollution, and for vehicles we might be using in the not-too-distant future, like Firefly, a personal aircraft; Synapse, a solar-fueled tram; and Heracles, a bus that bypasses traffic by taking off and landing vertically.
There are enough activities in physics to stimulate and sustain my son for the whole afternoon, but right now he is strapped into a cockpit and controlling a simulated aircraft. His imagination has taken flight!
Mont Bromont Experiences
At its highest point, Mont Bromont is 2,000 feet, with a 1,300 feet vertical drop. It is the largest illuminated alpine skiing centre in North America. In summer, it is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts with climbing, hiking, zip-lining, giant swings, trampo-bungee, and a massive aquatic park with water slides. We’re here to get a lay of the land, and are whisked up the mountain by gondola to survey the panoramic views of this lush region from above. On the way down we’re passed by daredevil cyclists who seem to know no fear as they race along mountain paths.
National Cycling Center of Bromont
Nearby is the National Cycling Center of Bromont, which promotes all forms of cycling. This is home to the Velodrome from the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games, shipped, piece by piece, in 20-foot-long strips, 1.5 inches thick. The track is 250 metres and its curve is 42 degrees. It’s like trying to ride a bike on a wall. You have to maintain momentum in order to defy gravity. Try as I might, I cannot succeed. But, here we discover Pump Track Bikes. Bicycles without brakes may sound like a head-scratcher, unless you’re on a pump track. We don our helmets, select the right size BMX and practice on the indoor pump track before heading to the outside track with dirt jumps.
The pump track bike is a BMX with thin, light wheels and one fixed gear. It’s not at all like a normal bike. We do not pedal, and there are no brakes! We’re told to use gravity to gain momentum with the same principle as pumping on a swing. Riding this undulating track, we push down and make ourselves heavy on the declines, and then pull up and make ourselves light on the inclines. Our pendulum motion causes us to really pick up speed. Racing around the track outside, I feel like I’m riding a Pogo stick that’s barrelling forward, and then I remember: there are no brakes! This is a thrilling activity, and all I can do is try to keep up with my son.
VéloVolant
Have you ever ridden a bike in the trees? VéloVolant provides us with recumbent bicycles suspended by cables that enable us to pedal through the tree tops with a bird’s eye view of the wildlife around us. It’s like a ropes course, but on a bike. Towering above a ravine, this 1,000-metre circuit along the mountainside is breathtaking. (Pro tip: overnight options include treehouse cabins high up in the canopy!)
ObservEtoiles
At night, the place to be is ObservEtoiles, the world’s first open-air augmented-reality planetarium. This has to be seen to be believed. Au Diable Vert is a Dark Sky Preserve. Seated in a mountain side amphitheatre we don augmented-reality headsets to augment the night sky with constellations and the names of stars and planets. Each night, astronomers narrate their presentation according to the stars’ positions that evening. It does not matter if it’s in French, we are absolutely mesmerized by this celestial trip.
Capelton Mine
From the skies above we head to the caverns below. Mining has been a major part of Canadian history and economy. The Capelton Mine was a great source of copper discovered in 1863. Here, we learn the history of daily life and conditions as we descend 50 metres underground from the mine entrance on Mount Capel. The mine is about 1.5 kilometres deep, but it has flooded, and so we traverse the cold, wet upper portions where minors actually lived. It’s harrowing to imagine, but my son is enjoying pretending he’s a prospector and doesn’t mind that 150 years ago, at his ripe old age of 10, he might have been working there.
Acoatica
From terroir to merroir, Acoatica is a fascinating immersion into the world of fish “without getting wet.” We carry our fishing rods and worms to the pond like Andy and Opie whistling in the sunshine. A few casts of the line and we’re in for two Brook Trout. My son excitedly races them back to a station where they’re properly cleaned. We then season them in an outdoor kitchen from a selection of herbs, spices, oil and lemon, wrap them in foil and bake them in the oven. Within minutes we’re seated at a picnic table with our accoutrements enjoying our catch of the day. (In winter the activity changes to ice fishing.)
A short stroll leads us to marshes and wetlands, but my son is now eager for the fish-themed playground for an intense round of tag with all the other kids in the park. The aim of Acoatica is to understand the different stages in the life cycle of fish, and particularly endangered fish, from breeding to release. Where the outdoors meets technology, we enter a digital world to learn about sustainability and saving engendered species. Video modules set us on adventures from which we earn points. The more fish we save as we race against a clock, the better their chance of survival. The final stage is an immersive room with an “underwater” atmosphere, in which we must maintain the marine balance against predators, over-fishing and pollution. The challenges of Acoatica are so fun for kids, but there is an obvious underlying point for parents to enable conscious connections between the games and the realities of the delicate nature of life cycles.
Foresta Lumina
As the sun sets over Coaticook Canyon, the sprites alight, and the forest becomes illuminated by mythical creatures who dance in the air and beckon us like sirens into the mystical brilliance of Foresta Lumina—perhaps the most fantastical experience one can enjoy in Canada.
Every child’s dream as they set out for a walk in the woods should begin with, “Once upon a time…” Theatrical effects along this enchanted nighttime forest trail are magical. Manuscripts introduce (fictional) characters who appear out of the darkness from eleven different zones along the 2.6-kilometre multimedia path from the Garden of Wishes to Margaret’s Secret.
On its own, night hiking has allure, but Foresta Lumina brings the forest to life with surreal beauty. We cross the Misty Portal into an imaginary world of the unknown, and up into the Land of Shadow where a bloody monster’s appetite and heart of ice are never satisfied! Red eyes glow from the darkness and follow us up a lugubrious path to the Devil’s Hideaway. As we pass various stations of musicality, fancy and dread, the Spirit of the Forest ensures our harmony. Upon reaching the Fairies Trail we are surrounded by a whirlwind of lights — not mere fireflies — but fairies. Full of gaiety as they flutter about us, we take a moment to whisper a wish to those who may grant them.
We are told that Margaret lived near the forest long ago and was blessed with an uncommon gift: she could see what others could not see. We dream and dance within a waterfall of light, and gaze across the canyon at Margret appearing from the cliff, entreating us to keep her secret as we bid farewell.
Wide-eyed and mesmerized, my son and I both feel like we’ve journeyed through a story book and need time to process the fairy tale we’ve just experienced. At bedtime when he closes his eyes to sleep, I know he has returned there.
Bleu Lavande
From the luminescence of the evening to the fragrance of the day, we follow butterflies to lavender fields. Bleu Lavande is a sloping field of true Lavandula Angustifolia and Russian Sage. At first glance this is a selfie and Insta-dream. On further exploration it’s a former driving range turned regenerated landscape. The aim is sustainable and responsible stewardship of our environment, bees and butterflies.
Walking through the garden is a wellness immersion into a lavender-induced calm. Here we also learn that lavender oil is an analgesic and anti-inflammatory agent that we can rub onto mosquito bites. Inside the boutique we admire lavender products from oils and lotions to honey, butters, diffusers and household amenities, but we have our sights set on the Breathe Clinic.
Following the contour of the field we arrive at a gazebo where, amidst the pleasing aromatics of the gardens, certified massage therapists are on hand. Our session is a meditative course in which we learn about Cardiac Coherence, a breathing technique that regulates heart rate and balances physiology. As the breath controls the heart, the heart controls emotions. Through this practice we reduce stress and refocus. Gentle music in the breeze facilitates us as we inhale and exhale and harmonize our cardiovascular system.
At Bleu Lavande all our five senses are exposed. While enjoying a refreshing lavender smoothie, we learn that our sense of smell governs 80 per cent of our sense of taste.
A tour of the idyllic villages within the lush rolling landscape of Eastern Townships is as accessible as it is aspirational. Brimming with artisans and adventures that check all the boxes, the enrichment equals the allure.
For more information about Eastern Townships, go to: www.easterntownships.org
This post appeared first on DINE and Destinations Magazine.