On a cold and wet weekday evening, there didn’t seem to be much appetite for a ‘dry’ January at The Clifton. The bar was packed and I couldn’t spot anybody sipping soft drinks – one brave chap was even ordering shots of tequila and it was only just after 6pm.
But then with many pints well under £5 – a rarity in Clifton – and tempting deals on cocktails and seasonal drinks, it’s easy to see why most regulars are indulging. And with two cocktails for £15 (4pm-7pm, Weds-Sat) and 20% off drinks every Sunday night from 4pm for people who work in hospitality, The Clifton is certainly doing its best to make sure ‘dry’ January is as wet as possible.
This large pub on Regent Street reopened in July 2023 under new owners who had previously made a name with two award-winning gastropubs in Wales. Sarah Watts-Jones and her husband Tom, also run the acclaimed Heathcock in Cardiff and the Michelin-rated Hare & Hounds in Aberthin near Cowbridge – widely regarded as two of the best food pubs the other side of the Bristol Channel.
The secret of their success in Wales and now Bristol is that they retain the pub element of each venue as well as dishing up high end food people are happy to travel for. That means real ales, bar stools, jars of dog biscuits on the bar and a shelf of board games in the front bar, with a spacious restaurant at the back, just past the fully open kitchen.
I’ve eaten at The Clifton a few times and it really is one of the best in the city. As well as fantastic Sunday roasts, there’s a daily changing menu that might include sardines, white cabbage, brown shrimp and chervil starter followed by a huge steak and ale pie to share, finishing with buttermilk pudding, granola, pear and honey.
But if you simply fancy a pint or a glass of wine with a packet of crisps, that’s fine, too. Unlike many gastropubs which are simply restaurants within an old pub, The Clifton retains its local boozer ambience.
There’s a decent choice of beers and ciders on offer. I went for the Wye Valley HPA (£4.60 a pint) but other pumps were dispensing St Austell Tribute and Sandford Orchards Devon Mist hazy cider.
Also on tap was Guinness, Camden Hells, Camden Pale, Thatchers Gold, Pilsner Urquell, Amstel and Beavertown Neck Oil. A blackboard in the bar lists several wines by the glass or bottle, and classic cocktails including Negroni, Martini or French 75.
And for those drinkers who really are sticking to ‘dry’ January, there are plenty of soft drinks available. Although at £4.30 for a bottle of Fentimans Rose Lemonade, it may be cheaper to go for the hard option after all.
The Clifton, 16 Regent Street, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 4HG.