“This is just like Narnia!” Not the reaction of a young child, but the first thought that came into my head when I stepped into the half-light of a Lapland Polar Night. In fact, I found myself thinking the exact same thing the next day as our reindeer-pulled sled slipped across the fresh snow into a Finnish forest.
I have to admit, as an adult I didn’t expect to feel the ‘magic’ of Lapland, even knowing we were going to meet the Big Man himself in his village. But it turned out to be an incredible experience. In fact it’s a whole package of incredible experiences as every minute in Lapland can be crammed with something new and exciting – and despite the intense timetable the coach on the way back to the airport was packed with children who were full of joy and happiness.
And there can be no greater measure of how successful a family trip is than the mood of the children at the end.
But I’ve skipped ahead…
Taking a Christmas trip to Lapland was something that had been on my wish list for a while. So long in fact that my children are now all-grown up. But they leapt at the chance of a trip north of the Arctic Circle. We booked in with TUI for a three-night break in December, and found ourselves heading to Gatwick for a 3am check-in with a ticket to see Santa.
The rainy morning was given a little sparkle when we were met at the airport by elves, and the whole experience was handed a twist of TUI Christmas magic with the three-and-a-half hour journey, literally, flying by, thanks to onboard elves keeping us all entertained with music, games, food, competitions and updates on Santa.
The light dropped as we descended into Kitilla airport, about 150 miles north of the Arctic Circle. At this time of year the Sun never rises so even in the middle of the day you find yourself in a twilight with the sky filled with vibrant pinks and oranges.
The day we arrived it was -26C. The air glittered with ice crystals and you could feel your breath freezing in your nose. Fortunately, our first stop 20 minutes away in the ski-resort of Levi was the winter-gear shop, where we were handed snow boots and suits.
Then across the road to our home for the next few days, the three-star Sirkantahti hotel. Our rooms were warm and comfortable – Nordic wood and cosy blankets – with everything we would need – including a sauna. Everyone in Finland needs a sauna.
We grabbed a lunch in the hotel bar – cold Finnish drinks and a warm open fire. The TUI welcome briefing filled us in on a little local knowledge so we quickly headed out into the snow to explore. Several of the people we spoke to said they would have liked a bit more information – from more about the trips to details about the local area and even a quick lesson on how to use the snow suits, so it is worth doing a bit of research yourself and exploring as much as you can to make the most of your break.
Definitely talk to your fellow holidaymakers as they will fill you in on a few nuggets of local knowledge – like the best sledding spots and where to get good pizza. And interrogate the reps to find out things like exactly where excursions leave from, what they involve and how long they last.
In Levi, the town is a five minute walk from the hotel door, and there are also a couple of supermarkets nearby if you want to try local foods, or stock up on forgotten items like gloves, plugs and scarves.
The town itself is packed with bars and restaurants, shops and takeaways. And just behind it is the large hill which makes Levi the best ski resort in Finland. It is a stunning sight, towering above the town, and for a few Euros you can ride the gondola to the top even if you aren’t going to ski
Families gather at the base of the mountain for sledding, and most of our spare time was spent down here getting more and more daring with our routes.
DAY ONE: THE EXCURSIONS
If you book a three-night stay with TUI then you’ll have one free day and one day with the main event – the Santa visit, as well as taster sessions of the excursions. Our free day came first and, thankfully it had warmed up to -12C, and we packed the snowy day with as much adventure as we could. Three trips out, lunch and dinner, sledding on the mountain and shopping were all crammed in.
The day started with that ‘Narnia’ trip to a reindeer farm where the fresh snow looked like it was filled with glitter and our youngest said ‘it doesn’t feel real!’.. The family business just 15 minutes from Levi has been welcoming guests for well over 100 years, and the team are ready to offer you a warm welcome and share their knowledge.
After clambering into the sled you’ll set off on an awe-inspiring trek through the forest. The rhythm of the reindeer hooves and the constant ‘white noise’ of the runners on the ice and snow are meditative. After the ride you get to meet, and feed the reindeer. Then head inside for warm drinks and a presentation on the history of reindeer farming in Finland. A bit long for the children, but fascinating stuff.
The next adventure was more fast paced – husky driving, with a 5k ice ride. After a lesson in how to drive the sleds, we set off on a high-speed run through the woodland. Thrilling and invigorating – it is amazing to see the dogs at work and see how much they enjoy the work.
We warmed up from the icy run sitting round an open fire and sipping hot berry juice, while the owners explained how they care for the dogs. Then we got to meet the dogs themselves, and hold some of the new puppies.
After a lunch back at the hotel (warming chicken stew and roasted potatoes) we spent some more time wandering in the town, and sledding on the mountain.
Our final adventure of the day didn’t start until 8 in the evening – A Northern Lights safari by snowmobile. After a lesson in how to ride the impressive machines, we set off on a 40kph race into the wilderness, ending up on the edge of a frozen lake under a perfectly dark sky, where we sat in a kota – log cabin – and heated food and drink on an open fire while we listened to local folk music and our guide thrilled us with tales of the indigenous Saami people.
Feeling more confident, we picked up the pace for our run back to Levi, making the most of the rough ground, the fresh snow, the dark night and the winding path through the woods.
DAY TWO: THE BIG SHOW
Our second full day was the main event, the Big Show – the trip to see Santa himself.
In the morning we had the taster sessions, a very quick husky ride and a sled ride. Then another warming, comforting lunch, and a 45-minute coach ride north to the edge of a lake when we found Santa and his elves.
The path to the village is lined with light-filled trees and candles in the snow, and armed with a map we made our way through the village of wood cabins.
Each cabin was packed with elves who welcomed the children – and adults – to join in their activities. That included lessons in Elvish, wrapping presents, decorating cookies, meeting reindeer and more. You get to see an Elf’s home, play in the snow and generally enjoy two hours in an Elvish village – and of course meet Santa.
We were ushered into a room to meet the Big Man, who was as jolly and happy as you would expect, full of curiosity and mischief he sat us down and made time for us even though it was only a few days to Christmas – at the end of the trip, everyone was filled with a little extra joy and magic and no-one was disappointed.
The TUI reps, and Elves, put on a festive finale dinner for us all at the end of the day – a Finnish Christmas meal of vegetables and ham followed by entertainment and singing. Then we headed back out to the mountain to pick up a few more souvenirs, ride to the top to take in the view, and sled until we were exhausted.
And as quickly as it began the adventure was done. As I said at the start, despite everything that had been crammed into just a couple of days there wasn’t a miserable child on the journey home. They had met Santa, they had played in the snow, and they had been filled with memories and the magic of Christmas. Job done.
TUI LAPLAND EXCURSIONS: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
- TUI offers three and four-night holidays to Lapland which include flights, accommodation, transfers and a variety of winter excursions and extras. Three-night breaks to Lapland in December 2025 start from around £975 per person, inclusive.
- As well as flights from Gatwick you can fly from Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Glasgow, Manchester and Newcastle.
- Choose from a variety of destinations with flights heading to four different airports across Lapland: Kittila, Rovaniemi, Ivalo and Kuusamo. Select from hand-picked hotels in destinations that offer a variety of experiences and stays such as Christmas magic, winter sports, shops and nightlife, or traditional picture-perfect villages.
- As well as Santa and his elves, TUI Lapland trips offer a variety of Christmas excursions that can be booked through TUI Musement. The snowy countryside can be explored by snowmobiling, reindeer and husky rides, and you might even be lucky enough to see the Northern Lights.
- For example, TUI offers a four-night holiday to Kuusamo, Lapland staying at the 3T+ Holiday Club Kuusamo on a bed & breakfast basis from £1105 per person. Price is based on two adults and two children sharing a Family Room with flights departing from London Gatwick on 11 December 2025 with 20kg hold luggage per adult and transfers