On a summer day you can expect any of Bristol’s riverside pubs to be packed with drinkers, but few are keen enough to sit in a beer garden in their coat come winter. When attentions turn to roaring fires and squishy sofas inside, the crowds often turn instead to some of the city’s cosiest spots to warm up in.
The Chequers at Hanham might not be the most obvious choice for that list, as it is much better-known for its claim to have the ‘best beer garden by the River Avon’. The benches overlooking the water are understandably empty at this time of year, but the glowing lights inside were a beacon against a grey sky when we pulled up in its quiet car park.
Situated five miles outside the city centre, this scenic spot was taken over by Young’s brewery in 2017 and advertises “the best cask ales and craft beer, delicious seasonal menu and an exceptional collection of craft gins”. We visited one weekday lunchtime and need not have worried about booking ahead, as just a couple of other tables inside were occupied.
Inside, the first thing that struck us was the view – windows run along the length of the space to utilise the waterside location, looking out to a stretch of the river where seals have been known to swim. The dog-friendly pub is popular with walkers, though the drizzle outside meant we quickly ditched any plan to pull our boots on first.
We were greeted by a really bubbly staff member who invited us to take our pick of the seats, so we settled down to enjoy the view without getting wet. The ‘cosy pub checklist’ was quickly ticked off with a quick glance around: log fire, mulled cider on the menu and lots of twinkling lights. It was all the more snug while watching the rain lash down outside.
The menu offers several main courses at lunch time, from heritage squash (£15.50) at one end of the price range to an 8OZ sirloin steak (£32) at the other. Looking for a lighter bite, we instead turned to the small plates and sandwiches section.
Fillings for the sandwiches change seasonally and are currently being served in brioche with winter leaves, priced between £10 and £12. During our visit the menu was slightly different and it was the pork belly that won me over, served with a pile of vegetable crisps.
Service was swift and super friendly, with staff even making an effort to entertain our dining companions in their high chairs. Our meals arrived before the babies had managed to wreak too much destruction on the table decorations, and looked delicious.
The generous filling was neatly pierced in place with a sharp stick, which was swiftly removed from reach from any tiny grabby hands. It wasn’t the easiest thing to eat but was so worth the mess. The tender meat was delicious, paired with a fresh and crunchy fennel salad and a slathering of mayonnaise, in case the melt-in-the-mouth pork fat wasn’t indulgent enough.
Upon payment we were invited to leave a review to try to help them drive more winter custom, so it seems the lull we noticed wasn’t just a fluke. With a half pint of Pilsner plus a tip, my part of the bill came to £16.50, which I felt was really reasonable given the quality of the food and the beautiful setting. This pub might come to life in summer, but it deserves a buzz in winter too.