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It’s a crisp -11 C in the Jukkasjärvi area of Swedish Lapland, 200 km above the Arctic Circle. I’m doing my best to remain calm as six powerful huskies charge ahead, carrying me behind them on a small sled affixed to skis. The dogs maneuver through narrow snowy paths, coming within a whisker of hitting a tree. As we descend, trees line either side and the path becomes increasingly windy. The dogs are confident, having run this path hundreds of times before. Me, not so much.
I’m on day two of my three-day “taste” of the Fjällräven Polar experience, which has brought me deep into the Arctic tundra to travel almost 100 km by dog sled. I — along with a handful of media guests from around the world — am being treated to a small glimpse of what 20 participants (anyone can sign up to join) will soon experience on the full five-day, 300 km expedition across Arctic Scandinavia.
Led by a professional team of mushers and guides, participants of varying ages and experience levels will come together, courtesy of Swedish outdoor apparel brand Fjällräven, to learn survival skills in extreme conditions. Like us, they’ll travel through open tundras, encased in snow and ice, while sharp wind strikes at any small sliver of bare skin. They’ll journey through dense forests, learning to manoeuvre their team of dogs, followed by unpacking sleds and caring for their crew. Evenings are spent under starry skies — if the weather plays nice — beside the roaring flames of a fire as you chat about your day of challenges and successes with excitement for what’s to come.
The best part? Absolutely no outdoor experience is required. Fjällräven is so confident in its gear (and accompanying team of experts) that the experience is open to people of all ages (18 and over) and outdoor ability levels. The brand aims to prove that with the right knowledge, support and equipment, anyone can enjoy the subzero temperatures and extreme conditions of the Arctic. They proved that with our group — we had a real mixture of participants, some who had never camped before.
More and more adventurers apply to take part every year, with over 31,000 entries in 2023. Applications for the 2025 Polar have just closed, and the lucky participants will be announced Dec.9.
So, what can the winners — and you, should you choose to apply in future — look forward to? The journey starts at the Fjellborg Arctic Journeys kennels, where you’ll gear up and receive a short lesson on controlling your sled and your dogs. How to steer and brake, but surprisingly nothing about dodging trees. As the days progressed, you’ll learn it’s all about controlling your body weight. Lean too early and you’ll throw yourself off balance; too late and you’ll miss the tree by a fraction. The number one rule is to hang on, no matter what because your dogs will continue to charge ahead until they feel the brakes (impossible if you’re half a kilometre behind) or are intercepted by another musher ahead.
I started with a five-dog squad, all capable of running around 40 km per hour. I felt instantly connected to them, memorizing their names and giving them as much love as they would allow pre-journey — their cheerful, excited barks showed they were more interested in running than getting to know me but I was determined to change that. We headed for Lake Väkkärä, and I settled in for the journey as the dogs found their pace, feeling comfortable and confident after 15 or 20 minutes on my sled.
When we arrived at the frozen lake, we pitched our Polar Endurance 3 tents (unfortunately not available in Canada, but the Endurance 2 is on Amazon), which are windproof, waterproof and designed for harsh winter climates. My tentmate was a lovely older woman from France, who had never camped in her life. It was a sink-or-swim moment and she did beautifully. We waited for a glimpse of the Northern Lights, very common in the area at this time, which sadly did not appear, as we happily ate our rehydrated rations.
I woke up surprisingly warm, almost hot, having slept in the -30 C rated Polar -30 (also unavailable on the Canadian site, the Skule is your next best with a -2 C comfort rating). The day brought a daunting 50km on our sleds. I immediately found my crew, nestled comfortably in their individual dog houses, and helped feed and hydrate them.
After breakfast we harness our crews, amidst a cacophony of yaps and yelps, the dogs anxiously anticipating the moment they can run, run, run. We set off and I eventually hit one of those pesky trees during a particularly narrow and winding stretch but managed to hold on long enough to drag myself back up onto my sled, my dogs none the wiser. We twist and turn, through the forests and across barren tundra, collaborating as a team and I’m almost sure my dogs are proud of me by the time we reach camp that night.
Over the three days, we learned to control our crew and work as one. We carved out benches in the snow to enjoy a hot coffee over the fire or protect ourselves from the wind during a dehydrated spaghetti bolognese break. We plunged into the icy lake (intentionally) and formed bonds with our comrades on this wild and wonderful journey we found ourselves on. The bond built with my dogs grew strong – we cared for one another in what felt like one of the most desolate parts of the world. I needed them and they needed me.
The Fjällräven gear that kept me comfortable in the Arctic
Without the correct gear, I wouldn’t have survived the three-day expedition. Below is a list of everything we used to stay warm and dry. Understand layering techniques and be sure you’re kitted out correctly before exploring extreme temperatures.
Baselayer: Bergtagen Thinwool LS (Men’s | Women’s) & Bergtagen Thinwool Long Johns (Men’s | Women’s)
Fleece: Keb Fleece Hoodie (Men’s | Women’s)
Accessories:Logo Hat | Keb Fleece Neck Gaiter | Expedition padded cap
Down jacket: Expedition Pack Down Hoodie (Men’s | Women’s)
Parka:Polar Expedition Parka (Men’s | Women’s) — not available in Canada, but similar is the Expedition Down Jacket (Men’s | Women’s)
Tent:Polar Endurance 3 — not available in Canada, but similar is the Endurance 2
Sleeping bag:Polar -30— not available in Canada, but similar is the Skule
Many of Fjallraven’s products can also be found on Amazon or Altitude Sports.
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ltaveroff@postmedia.com