Reimagining the European ski holiday at Club Med

As I stood atop the Plateau des Saix, surveying the vast expanse of the French Alps, I couldn’t help but ponder: What brings a Canadian skier 4,000 miles across the Atlantic when world-class slopes beckon much closer to home? The answer, I discovered, is as complex and nuanced as the terroir of a fine French wine.

Club Med’s Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon Resort, perched at 1600 meters and a mere 75-minute drive from Geneva, offers a compelling case study in the evolution of the European ski holiday. Opened in 2017, this isn’t the swinging, swaggering Club Med of yore. It’s a sophisticated reinvention aimed primarily at families seeking to swap logistical challenges for a hassle-free winter getaway.

The resort’s architecture is a bold departure from the quaint chalets that typically dot the Alpine landscape. Instead, it presents a striking blend of contemporary design and Savoyard influences. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains, while locally sourced wood and stone pay homage to regional building traditions. It’s an approach that might raise eyebrows among purists but undeniably offers a fresh perspective on mountain lodging.

This modern sensibility extends to the resort’s more than four hundred rooms, which range from cozy couples’ retreats to spacious family suites. Our accommodations, a deluxe room with a balcony, offered a minimalist yet comfortable sanctuary for my wife, Anisha, our nine-year-old son, Nayam, and me. The muted colour palette and sleek furnishings were a far cry from the often kitschy alpine decor found in many ski lodges, though I did find myself missing some of the charm that comes with more traditional lodgings.

When applied to skiing, the all-inclusive concept presents an intriguing proposition. Lift tickets, group lessons, meals, and childcare are all rolled into one package, greatly simplifying budgeting and logistics for families like ours or novice skiers. No more deliberating over whether to splurge on lessons or where to dine each night. However, seasoned skiers or culinary enthusiasts might find this approach limiting, missing out on the serendipitous discoveries that often make travel memorable.

That said, Club Med’s culinary offerings make a genuine effort to showcase French gastronomy. The main restaurant, Cozy Mountain, is a far cry from the cafeteria-style dining often associated with all-inclusive resorts. Instead, it presents a daily changing buffet from classic French dishes to international cuisines. The focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients is evident, with plenty of Savoyard specialties on offer.

For a more elevated experience, the Skyline Gourmet Lounge serves à la carte meals with sweeping mountain views. Here, I savoured a perfectly prepared tartiflette, its rich, creamy flavours a welcome respite after a day on the slopes. While not extensive, the wine list offers a well-curated selection of French wines, including several from nearby Savoie.

But what of the skiing itself?

The Grand Massif ski area, with its 256 kilometres of slopes spread across five interconnected resorts, offers a scale and variety that’s hard to match in North America. Long, winding runs that meander through trees and connect multiple villages are a hallmark of European skiing, offering a sense of journey rarely found in more compact North American resorts.

The ski school, staffed by instructors from the renowned École du Ski Français, caters to all levels. Their teaching methodology, emphasizing precise technique, can offer new insights even to lifelong skiers. For beginners like Anisha and Nayam, the gentle, well-groomed slopes provided an ideal learning environment. I watched with pride as they progressed from tentative snowplows to confident turns throughout our stay. The small group lessons allowed them to learn at their own pace while making new friends, turning what could have been an intimidating experience into an enjoyable adventure.

Off the slopes, the resort offers a range of amenities designed to soothe tired muscles and entertain restless children. With its expansive mountain views, the indoor heated pool provides a relaxing apres-ski option. The Club Med Spa by CARITA offers a range of treatments, though at an additional cost. For families, the childcare options are extensive, with programs catering to ages from 4 months to 17 years. Nayam particularly enjoyed the Mini Club Med, returning with exciting stories of new friends and adventures each day.

Yet, for all its conveniences, the all-inclusive model inevitably creates a bubble that can insulate guests from the local culture. The nearby village of Samoëns, dating back to the Middle Ages, offers a glimpse into authentic Alpine life. But it requires a deliberate excursion from the resort’s self-contained world. This separation from the local community is perhaps the most significant trade-off of the Club Med experience.

For Canadian skiers considering a European ski holiday, properties like Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon offer an intriguing middle ground. They provide the familiarity of an all-inclusive model and the convenience of English-speaking staff, easing the transition for those intimidated by language barriers or unfamiliar systems. It’s a soft landing in a foreign ski culture, if not a complete immersion.

Canadians intrigued by the concept but hesitant to cross the Atlantic have a closer option to explore. Club Med’s first North American all-inclusive ski resort, Le Massif de Charlevoix, which opened in Quebec’s Charlevoix region in December 2021. Located about an hour’s drive northeast of Quebec City, it offers a taste of the Club Med ski experience on Canadian soil.

However, this convenience comes at a price, both literal and metaphorical. While the all-inclusive package can offer value, particularly for families or those who take full advantage of the included amenities, it generally comes at a premium compared to piecing together a DIY ski holiday. Additionally, despite the resort’s efforts towards sustainability, as evidenced by its Green Globe certification, the environmental impact of such a large, amenity-rich property in a sensitive Alpine environment remains a consideration for the eco-conscious traveller.

As I watched the sunset bathe the sky in hues of pink and gold behind the snow-capped peaks on our final evening, I reflected on the evolving nature of ski tourism. Properties like Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon challenge us to reconsider our assumptions about what a European ski holiday can be. They offer a vision of Alpine luxury that prioritizes convenience and comfort, sometimes at the expense of local charm and serendipity.

Whether this trade-off is worthwhile depends mainly on individual preferences and priorities. For those seeking to maximize slope time, minimize planning stress, and gently introduce themselves to European skiing, the Club Med model offers a compelling option. For others, the authenticity and unpredictability of a less packaged experience might be worth the extra effort.

What’s clear is that the landscape of ski vacations is evolving, offering more choices than ever before. And in the end, isn’t that what travel is all about? The freedom to choose your own adventure, whether a perfectly groomed piste or a bumpy trail through uncharted territory.

Getting there: The resort is accessible from Geneva-Cointrin (70 mins), Lyon St Exupery (130 mins), and Grenoble Alpes Isère (130 mins) airports.

When to visit: While the winter season runs from mid-December to mid-April, the resort also welcomes guests in summer from mid-June to early September.

Rates: The typical cost for a weeklong all-inclusive package ranges from CAD $2,000 to $4,500 per person. Club Med often runs special offers or early booking discounts, which can significantly impact the final price. For more information, visit clubmed.ca.