Living in the heart of England, it’s a rare treat to wake up to a sunrise over the sea. Yet, that was precisely the sight that welcomed me on a bright autumn morning as dog walkers and open water swimmers started their day at the harbour.
Nestled south of St Austell, Charlestown could easily be mistaken for a film set. In fact, its Grade II-listed harbour has played this role numerous times, most notably for BBC’s Poldark, but also for Tim Burton’s 2010 Alice in Wonderland and Dr Who.
Once a bustling port exporting copper and China clay, Charlestown is a perfect spot for those wishing to follow the footsteps of ancient mariners. With its colourful fishermen’s cottages, pubs and restaurants, and a variety of independent shops, there’s plenty to explore – you might even cross paths with a celebrity.
At the centre of all this activity is Pier House, reports Cornwall Live. Recently reopened, this sage green establishment sits right on the historic harbour, offering stunning sea views regardless of the weather, making it an ideal place to stay.
After parking at the nearby Rashleigh Arms, we checked into our superior sea view room and were immediately charmed by its soothing green interior and luxurious super-king bed. The room, one of four types available, was filled with thoughtful touches that made it feel like a home away from home – think Roberts radios, Elemis toiletries and dry robes for those brave enough to take a dip in the sea.
Our room boasted a breathtaking view of the harbour, offering us endless amusement as we observed the waves rolling in from our snug viewing spot, binoculars at hand. During our visit, we even had the opportunity to watch a film crew at work from our prime vantage point, which led us to venture down to Pier House’s sea-facing bar and sun-trap terrace for a closer peek.
As a pub conversion by the family-run St Austell Brewery, it seemed only appropriate to savour a pint of Tribute in honour of the occasion. The cuisine at Pier House is just as remarkable as the vistas.
For our evening meal, we treated ourselves to Newlyn-caught haddock, crushed minted peas and chunky chips, which gave us that classic ‘holiday’ sensation as we looked out over the ocean. On our second day, the pea and shallot ravioli offered a refreshing lift.
And the breakfasts are equally delightful – imagine loaded pancakes, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, and hearty full English breakfasts catering to meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans alike. But don’t be deceived by Charlestown’s quaint facade – there’s plenty to explore.
What to do in Charlestown
Whether it’s grabbing a pizza at the Harbour Beer House, treating yourself to some ice cream from Tallships Creamery, or perusing local ceramics at The Craft Kiln at The Old Workshop, you’re guaranteed to depart with a satisfied stomach and a bag brimming with mementos.
A trip to Charlestown wouldn’t be complete without a visit to St Austell Brewery, just a short 10-minute drive away. Whether you’re a beer lover or not, the enthusiasm of the tour guides and the opportunity to learn about the brewing process makes it worth the journey.
You can even try your hand at pouring your own pint during the tasting session after the tour. And if that’s not enough, be sure to check out The Eden Project and explore its Rainforest and Mediterranean Biomes. Now that’s a staycation to remember!
So, how much does a stay at Pier House set you back? Room rates at Pier House start from £175 per night for bed and breakfast, based on two people sharing a classic double room.