If there was a Richter scale for restaurants, and by that I mean a grading by which you might measure the whole trembling package including service, food, comfort and that elusive one, mood, then I would start with high marks in Belfast for the likes of Stereo, Ox, Stock Kitchen, mrDeane’s, Howard Street, Waterman, Stove, Macau, Shimla, John Long’s, Muddler’s Club and two or three more.