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Vehicle owners react to paint scratches and chips in different ways. Some fret, immediately break out the paint first-aid kit and get to work while others simply think “Meh, it’s just another commuting battlefield scar, why bother?” But should we really worry about minor scratches on our vehicles’ paintwork?
Think of the paint as an automotive version of our skin. Its primary purpose is to keep corrosion at bay, while we drive in an extremely metal-damaging environment. But unlike our dermis, vehicle paint has no self-repairing ability, meaning if a scratch or paint chip is deep enough and it’s not treated, it will allow rust to begin, like a tissue infection. Here’s how to remove scratches from the car.
How do I tell what kind of scratch is on my car?
The first step is to determine whether you need to repair and refinish a mark or leave it and simply treat it with a good wax. After rinsing the area with water and wiping it down, run your fingernail across the mark to see how deep it is. If your nail barely catches and you see no light colour appearing at the bottom of the scratch or chip, you likely have an impact that hasn’t gone through the factory clear and colour coats to expose the often light-hued base-coat or primer. These types of marks can often be treated effectively with a good application of a quality car wax (not polish) after a thorough wash. The distinction between waxes and polishes is often ignored by DIYers, but they will achieve different results. Polishes contain grit which helps remove paint layers, something that can lead to the need for professional body-shop repair if not done correctly.
How to know if the scratch is deep?
If a scratch is longer than an inch or two, such as those that run the entire length of a fender or a door, touching it up with a paint-stick isn’t likely to produce an invisible repair no matter how skilled a Rembrandt might be. And if those longer marks show any signs of metal impression, you should be heading to the body shop for a professional estimate.
Preparing car for scratch removal
Start by finding a shady spot to work in. Direct sunlight on a warm day can cause paint adhesion and curing problems and when it comes time to smooth out your work with wax or a rubbing compound, well, they don’t like hot metal either. Thoroughly wash and rinse the area to remove any road grime. Grab some rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth to ensure all traces of grime are removed as they will reduce the bonding strength of the paint leading to peeling.
Touch-Up Paint: What is the best way to use touch up paint?
Shake the paint stick thoroughly for at least two minutes to mix the contents via the ball bearing that’s inside. If you’re working on a deep chip or scratch, don’t try to fill the mark in one shot. Apply the paint in layers, letting each one set for twenty minutes or so before putting down the next one. The paint in these sticks is a unique formula which is thinner than the mix used by a professional body painter. It makes the paint flow easier into cracks and pockmarks but can require several applications to fill the mark to the surface. Let the paint cure for a day or two before the next step of levelling your work.
Most owners will use a paint touch-up pen or stick purchased from their dealer, but often paint-code matched pens can be purchased from aftermarket shops. You’ll need to know the paint code for your ride and it can be found on the door identification label, often after the letters ‘PNT’. Most paint sticks now come with two compartments; one for the colour and one for the clear coat. Don’t ignore the latter. Lighter colours such as silver will appear unmatched after applying touch-up paint until the clear coat is applied and cured. Other than paint, you’ll need something to smooth your repair after it partially cures (about a day) and it’s best to start with a good quality wax from a credible source such as Turtle, Mothers or Meguiars. Rubbing compound is usually what detailing pros use, but it’s very easy to damage paint surfaces with this product unless you’ve got some experience. A micro-fibre cloth is needed as well, and some paint remover isn’t a bad idea to clean up any errant paint dabs when you miss the mark.
Polishing and Waxing
Pros will look down on using wax to level and smooth out a touch-up as they prefer rubbing compound or polish, but wax will smooth out paint that hasn’t completely hardened (a process that can take several weeks). More importantly, wax won’t damage areas that weren’t touched up, whereas rubbing compounds or polishes may. Avoid tinted waxes like the plague. I reviewed several different products in this line and haven’t seen one yet that doesn’t leave a coloured mess that you can spot from metres away, in the dark, on a foggy night.
If your wax job provided an acceptable finish, then get out the alcohol, not to celebrate, but to lightly remove any wax residue before applying the clear coat. Only a thin layer is needed and it shouldn’t require any levelling or waxing after.
How to avoid scratches on a car
If you want to prevent parking-lot scarring on your vehicle, consider a set of soft-touch, self-adhesive protective body side mouldings or door edge guards. These are readily available in most auto parts stores and can save you touch-up time.
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